There has been a definitive jump forward in menswear this season, with some highly assured and often very personal statements from many of the designers, some collections though, particularly those influenced by the 1970’s, felt somewhat out of sync with what was going on elsewhere. This was chiefly because they felt more like retro-reproductions of the 1970’s, rather than simply a reference point from which to start.
This was most in evidence at Topman, where there was a definitive retro, second hand feel to the collection. There were also strong 1970’s influences at Gucci and J.W. Anderson, where the decade was translated, not so much as androgyny, but as men wearing women’s clothes, with a distinctly seventies flavour.
The key elements of these collections were shag pile fur coats, rich warm colour palettes, tartan, velvet and a change in pant fits, especially in denim, with slim hipped, boot cuts and flares.
The 1970’s is a heavily predicted trend for Autumn-Winter 2015, but the elements which will have the most significant impact will be the those which manage to transcend the generation from which they were taken.
Another decade that was strongly referenced on the catwalk was the 1990’s, here however, the emphasis was less on replication and more on evoking a spirit of the decade, especially as it related to the Indie, Garage and House music scene, of the the early 1990’s in the UK. For this reason it also felt fresher and more current. The two brands whose collections most strongly featured the 1990’s, Our Legacy and MGSM, are also brands who are really hitting there stride right now.
The key elements of this trend were Shearling flight Jackets, Shell Suits, Vertical Butcher stripes, Chipie-esc Puffa Jackets and ‘Baggies’, (wide, Mad-chester type jeans), which were very popular in the north of England in the 1990’s.
Check here for the other Key Catwalk trends for Autumn – Winter 2015-16. We also will be publishing further analysis of pattern, colour and print, as well as the styles which will be key for next winter very soon.
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