The Democratic Muse
This was an assured and masterful collection from the team at Alexander McQueen, with every element and nuance executed to perfection. There were elements of modern urban streetwear, shapes and styling reminiscent of British 1980’s and 1990’s music and street culture, as well as more obvious and inspired interpretations of uniforms, both in and out of the office. A military jacket became a frock coat, a donkey jacket morphed into tailored luxury and heavy military knits were appliqued with embroidered flowers. Again, as in many of the stronger menswear shows, there was a huge emphasis on overall shape and silhouette, especially in the pleated pegged (cropped), workwear trousers, paired with thick sole Pointed creepers and in the layering of these over high-waisted denims, with heavy knitted sweaters tucked in. Heavy woolen, regency overcoats completed the look.
The title of the collection this season was ‘The Democratic Muse’. The main inspiration for the collection was the Uniform, both ‘at Work and at War’.
As a brand McQueen have always taken inspiration from street culture and the ever-evolving British style tribes, while at the same time drawing on references from uniform and the military. For Autumn Winter 2015, Creative Director Sarah Burton focused very much on the uniform aspect of this legacy, asking to understand that uniform is a testament to equality, in that it has long stood as a symbol, that all men are equal in the face of duty.
…it understands how that virtue is at the same time universal and classless, classic and subversive…. McQueen’s menswear collection makes an argument for its revival as a vehicle of both unity and individuality.