Many collections showed an uncharacteristic generosity of cut this winter, especially in tailoring, as if there had been a deficit for the last few years. Ermenegildo Zegna was a prime example, as were E.Tautz, Joseph, and Bottega Veneta among others. At Zegna, the generosity was mainly in the length of the garments, with long draping, single and double-breasted overcoats visible in a variety of fabrics. This lengthening was also apparent in other categories such as knitwear and blouson’s. Trousers were also lengthened, although here the elongation was in the rise, giving higher (or deeper) waists. Where there was knitwear the polo-neck (roll-neck) was a key style.
Colours were predominantly grey and various shades of muted military greens and browns, influenced, as was the styling and detail, by military attributes and brightened here and there by a futurist sheen of metallic fabrication and lustrous finishes.