Here are the highlights and key events if you are planning to visit Pitti Uomo in Florence later this month. Also, you can use our handy Trendillustrated newsletter to print out and take with you when you go. Just drag and drop the image at the bottom of the page to your desk top and press print for your indispensable quick guide.
Pitti Uomo 87 – January 13-16 2015
With the late cancellation of Berlin’s Bread and Butter this January, Pitti Uomo 87 in Florence has become by default the destination Menswear fair for the Autumn-Winter 2015-16 collections, so expect a bigger crowd than usual. This change has also resulted in the high profile return of several brands to Pitti, including German Brands, Windsor and Bogner, and a full relocation for Scotch and Soda, who along side their Mens and Womens collections will also be presentingtheir tailored line, Atelier Scotch for the first time at Pitti.
With a definite lean towards the more Sartorial and it roots in traditional high quality Italian fashion and tailoring, Pitti is stepping out of it’s comfort zone in more ways than one this season. One area is their nod to the influence that Outdoor Sport and lifestyle is having on fashion at the moment. The team at Pitti have collaborated in the run up to the fair with exhibitors to produce a special presentation. The result is Walkabout.
Walkabout is an homage to the on-going trend for everything outdoors, it’s importance as part of out everyday experience and it’s influence on different and surprising areas of the business. As part of this theme brands have submitted a collage of photographs inspired by their own walkabouts and the Fortezza da Basso will be transformed into a mixed terrain of different experiences and paths that wind through the pavilions, illustrated by brochures, maps, apps and other devices!
Following on from the selection of Korea as Pitti Uomo’s Guest Nation in Spring-Summer, for Autumn-Winter the nation specially selected is Sweden. Swedish Spot, a special exhibition will feature eight of Sweden’s most promising brands; Army of Me, Bread & Boxers, Ljung, Nikolaj d’Etoiles, Nor Autonom, The Case Factory and Whyred!
This group of select brands constitute the Swedish Noir scene and lead the way in the avant-garde male fashion movement of today. On stage on the first floor of Quinte Teatro, a collective of designers from Sweden will present their menswear collections to an audience of buyers and journalists in Florence.
This also compliments nicely Trendillustrated’s Sport and Street review published in September, in which we highlighted the importance of both Scandinavian and Korean designers on the current fashion and sportswear market.
We are living through an age of collaboration in fashion as brands and designers seek to leverage their own strengths and find synergies with like minded individuals or products.
Some exciting new collaborations on show this time will be:
The launch of the new capsule collection “K100” designed by Nigel Cabourn, in collaboration with the British outdoor brand, Karrimor;
WP Lavori in Corso’s collaboration with Blundstone and Ducati Motorcycles, that will culminate in a special presentation, Blundstone Ducati Scrambler;
and North Sails; which last season saw the launch at Pitti Uomo 86, of the Tiger Jay collection, (a collaboration between ex-Scotch and Soda CEO and owner Eric Bijlsma) and will this season see the presentation of the new direction for the brand, presented by Eric Bijlsma himself, who is now the new CEO of North Sails Apparel; 3 new lines will be launched for Autumn-Winter 2015-16: North Sails Black, North Sails Deep Blue and North Sails Ocean Blue. The new lines will interpret the brand’s intrinsic values of performance and technology with the addition of a strong contemporary aesthetic.
Special Guest – Hood By Air
Hood By AIR the New York Streetwear label, created by Shayne Oliver in 2006 will be a special guest at Pitti Uomo 87. Praised for their highly creative, cutting edge collections, they are a surprising choice for Pitti who are better known for their support of more traditional menswear.
“I saw their first event two years ago, and ever since then I have been struck by the unique creative process developed by the HBA,” says Lapo Cianchi, communications and events manager of Pitti Immagine, ”and by their distinctive way of making each, meticulously styled collection, into a strong statement about gender, social class, power and beauty.
Hood by Air’s creator Shayne Oliver will be at Pitti to produce a special event for the occasion
Other Highlights include
MARNI & ‘WHO IS ON NEXT UOMO’
Other highlights for Pitti this season must surely include the selection of Marni as the Guest Designer and the presentation of the winner of Pitti Uomo’s annual prize for new talent, “WHO IS ON NEXT, UOMO”.
MARNI has been selected as the Guest Designer for Pitti Uomo 87 and Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni’s creative Director, will present the Marni Autumn-Winter 2015-16 Menswear collection, on Thursday, January 15th, at the Museo Marino Marini at 7.00pm.
In addition, Pitti Uomo’s annual prize for new talent, “WHO IS ON NEXT, UOMO” will see the presentation of the winners collection at the Dogana, also on Thursday January the 15th, at 12.00 noon, which this year has been awarded, (for the Pret-A-Porter category), to T.Lipop.
T.LIPOP are a London based Designer Brand who mix progressive technical tailoring with a, less is more aesthetic. Tom Lipop and business partner Eser Aydemir launched the T.Lipop brand as a ready to wear label, to wide critical acclaim in 2011.