Part 2 of our analysis and a summary of the key Materials for Autumn Winter 2015-16.
The Big Divide
The collections were very thematically focused this season and as a result there was a general divide between how fabrics were used, depending on whether the designer in question was gunning for luxury and opluence; (Marni, Balmain, Haider Ackermann) where fur, skin and velvet prevalied or Sport-Utility; (Y-3, Rag & Bone, Our Legacy, Margaret Howell), where fabrication was generally more matt, than shine, except where it was contrasted with military inspired sateens or sporty technical nylons.
In contrast to the opulence shown by some of the designers, there were others who were more interested in Utility, Military and Sportswear and whose fabric choice therefore, was informed more by the worlds of utility and functionality. Either they were more obviously natural fibres, gaberdines and brushed cottons, felted wools, fleece, jersey and cable knit sweaters or more technically driven with neoprene, tricot structures and technical nylons all making a strong appearance. Y-3 was a great example bot only of the sports–utility trend but also of the use of different materials to create contrast and interest.
Surface appearance was also important, sateen constructed fabrics, technical nylons, neoprene, deep pile fleece, shearling, marled fleece and felted finishes where the dominant materials used, sometimes these were treated or printed for additional interest, (often with camouflage derivative prints).
Knitted fabrics also played a key role. Bottega Veneta, Umit Benan and Joseph all used knitted or heavy jersey fabrics to produce their own soft and chunky versions of the tracksuit.
It is also important to note that denim (alongside khaki or olive gaberdine twill) also played a key role in many of the collections.