Materials – Part 1
Part 1 of a two part analysis and summary of the key Materials for Autumn Winter 2015-16.
Surface texture and appearance will be very important for Autumn Winter 2015-16. On the catwalks, velvet, velour and satin, real and fake fur, fine pony and goat skins, sateen constructed fabrics, technical nylons, deep pile fleece, shearling, marled fleece and felted finishes, were the dominant materials used.
The Big Divide
The collections were very thematically focused this season and as a result there was a general divide between how fabrics were used, depending on whether the designer in question was gunning for luxury and opluence; (Marni, Balmain, Haider Ackermann) where fur, skin and velvet prevalied or Sport-Utility; (Y-3, Rag & Bone, Our Legacy, Margaret Howell), where fabrication was generally more matt, than shine, except where it was contrasted with military inspired sateens or sporty technical nylons.
For those designers with an eye on the splendid, fabrics with lustre were key. Luxurious leather, fur and velour fabrics were all given extra lustre, to further deepen the feeling of indulgence and luxury. Print and cut and sew paneling was further used, to add extra visual interest, with fringing, fur trim, and bejewelled adornment, the key trims used.