Autumn – Winter 2015-16 Marni

Marni – Boho Nomad

Marni was a mix of influences from 1960’s tailoring to traditional Eurasian nomads, all effortlessly blended together in one collection.

As mentioned in our Tribal Patterns forecast back in June, traditional folk influences are beginning to filter through into menswear. They were already visible in the Men’s Spring 2015 shows and although they have been more evident in womenswear they are now impacting Menswear, specifically in the simplification of shapes, in the trend for traditional tunics and smock like shirts, as well as in print, pattern, texture and detail, and in the combination of these elements and the styling of  some collections, Marni among them.Marni-head

Folk and Tribal Influences

At Marni it looked like the Traditional Eurasian Nomadic people and costumes of the Steppes of central Asia had been the major influence, with shaggy, albeit lux-shaggy, tunics and smocks, as well as in the the preference for fur, goatskin, shearling and alpaca. These simple shapes were effortlessly combined with the more modern influence of 1960’s tailoring, in the boxy suits and flared trousers. These were fuller in the waist, slightly cropped, with soft rounded shoulders and a higher break-point on the revere.

As with some of the London designers, E.Tautz and Margaret Howell for example, many styles saw the removal of superfluous details, like collars, pockets and reveres which had very simple front openings or were simple V-necks tunics. As well as a general simplification of styles, there was also a lengthening of styles at Marni and the collection was given extra movement with the addition of elegant and generously cut over-coats and elongated duster coats, which gave fluidity to an otherwise sculptural collection.

Colours were steel blue, deep emerald, navy, black and brown and dirty camel, with the odd bright red and blue print to brighten things up.Marni-Illustration.2