Spring Summer 2015 Catwalk – Key Trends – Military


The Military trend continues with Utility Shirts, Flight-suits and particularly the Mal-1 Flying jacket vying for contention as the key items of Spring – Summer 2015.


1. Variations on the MA-1 flight jacket

2. Patches, Military Insignia and blood Chits

3. Flight suits

4. Utility shirts

5.  Navy, Olive Drab, Khakis and and gunmetal greys

6. Camouflage

7. Deconstructed/hybrid military styles


Utilitarian Future

Some designers, Officine Generale, Marni and Margaret Howell among them, chose a more Utilitarian take on the military theme and one which undoubtedly fitted more closely with their own DNA. They did this by keeping the styles simple, the detail to a minimum and by only using a selection of solid neutral colours, with grey, olive and navy being key amongst them.

Also more utilitarian, but with a completely fresh approach was the one taken by London designer Richard Nicol, whose innovative use of fabrics, especially lightweight metallic ones and a fresh summer colour palette, with white as a base, moved the idea of utility and casual-wear some distance into the future.


Military Reconstructed

Maybe more interesting was the deconstructed approach taken by Japanese designers Chitose Abe at Sacai and Mihara Yushiro. Chitose chose different colours, navy and olive drab, and materials, knit and nylon, to create a hybrid MA-1 bomber jacket, which for sure will inspire many imitations next summer. Likewise Mihara Yushiro was also more playful in his approach to this genre, with strong styling that mixed patched nylon bombers with animal prints, paisley and denim to deliver a vibrant and very directional collection included many items that will become key items for next season.



Finally, no Military trend is complete without a camouflage of some description and this also looks set to be with us for another season. What’s interesting here is that it has followed the way of many prints for Spring Summer 2015. Firstly there is a more natural rendering, such as the botanic camouflage at A.Sauvage and secondly a more futuristic Geometric interpretation, such as that taken at Sacai. This trend will be explored further in Trend Illustrated’s Hand-Drawn vs Geometric, key Catwalk print trends….coming soon!